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Encountering
Plague, the Virgin,
and Saint Sebastian.

Venice, July 2004

BY STEPHEN GIBSON

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 Outside the church of San Zaccaria,
 my wife signed an AIDS petition
 after two young men had asked her
 in Italian if enough was being done.
 They'd placed a table outside the church
 as tourists ate gelato and walked by in the sun. 

 As she read it, I wanted to get out of the sun
 so I stood in the shadow of San Zaccaria
 watching her, wondering how the Church
 felt about young men with petitions
 hijacking tourists, claiming more needed to be done
 about fighting AIDS. They'd stopped her

 as we headed for the church and asked her
 something in Italian. I waited there in the sun, 
 feeling deaf, wanting them to be done, 
 then went and stood in the shadow of Zaccaria. 
 It's a church like every other church
 in Venice—it's filled with art. The petition
       called AIDS the new plague. If she signed the petition
 and left her e-mail, people would contact her. 
 Contact her? In the U.S.? Inside that church
 great art was waiting, and I was standing in the sun
 and then waiting in the shadow of San Zaccaria
 for her to quickly sign something and be done

 with it. But with married life, nothing's ever done. 
 When she finished talking and signed the petition, 
 she joined me under the shadows of San Zaccaria. 
 Did I know about the Virgin? she asked, how they begged her
 to save their city from plague, begged Saint Sebastian
 to intercede for them. Inside this very church

 incense rose, Venetians filled the church
 with their lamentation—something needed to be done
 to save them. It was the 16th century. Saint Sebastian's
 arrow wounds symbolized what everyone shunned—
 plague spots—like the spots on the young man handing her
 the clipboard with the petition. He had Kaposi's sarcoma. 

 Did it work? I asked. A third of Venice died, she said. The Church
 believed Christ was done with her. Still, they petitioned the Virgin
 and held processions outside the church of San Zaccaria. 

 

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