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Dave Eggers' The Wild Things is available for preorder, in regular hardcover and
limited-edition fur-covered.
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Six Kinds of Noodles.BY STEPHEN BURT
to have seen anything like this in a book, and yet here it is in real life: an almost already intelligible tangle of verities, and an intimidating menu, disfigured, almost, by all the things you can have at once, though all are noodles. Have you, too, been trying to keep up with John Ashbery? Every time I check there's another new book, another entry—entrée—on the menu from which I seem to have ordered my whole life, and been served somebody else's. Don't tangle with waiters here is my advice; the rectangle of mirrorlike soy sauce, the soba you have to have and the udon you lack should suffice: the secret of life— as you might have sought, or discovered, in Ashbery— is what you get while you are waiting. Men, you see, are mortal, and live to end up in a book, though once you compiled and published such a book, who would be left to read it? The latest angle claims that it would be more like a menu, an ashen, Borgesian checklist of all you could have or have had to pay for, or suffer, or notice. Ashbery could write that (I think it's in Flow Chart). And yet the life we long for in all its disorder is not a life of so many tastes, nor of fame; more like one good book, and ginger with which to enjoy it. Jeffrey Skinner's poem entitled "John Ashbery" and David Kellogg's "Being John Ashbery" both take the angle that eminence is what matters. No. We have had enough of fighting over the menu, as if it were the main course; the omen you seek, the bitter-lime tang of a happy life to come, curls up amid the semolina or buckwheat you have not chosen yet. Will it be prepared by the book? Will it do for Kitchen Stadium? Its newfangle- ness may be a virtue, Iron Chef Chen Kenichi, Auden, and Ashbery all suggest, though hard to find here without help from Ashbery: it's a problem with which I have tangled all my life, and I'm so hungry I could eat a book, though none are listed on this menu.
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